Bhutan

Kuzuzangpo la!

My first impression of Bhutan will forever be the clean feel of thin, dry air on my face.  The sun glistened as we walked off the plane in Paro.  The mountains rose up around us, the ridges were crisp against the deep blue sky.  The Pachu River ran clear in a river bed that suggested the possibility of a more intense mood.  Could we have somehow traveled further than we thought and were home in western Colorado?  It sure felt that way.  As we drove from Paro to Thimphu along a very curvy road following first the Pachu and then the Wang Chhu River, each turn revealed yet another beautiful view.  I had a very good feeling about this place.

Like any new town, we were initially confused.  Dzongkha, the local language, is incomprehensible though I have learned the greeting I began this post with.  At least many of the signs were in English so we could find our way around.  As we have discovered since Sicily though, each building seems to contain a million different shops.  Here the task of dissecting it all was a bit harder because all of the signs are in blue, causing them to blend into one another.  With a little persistence it all began to make sense.

We are here as volunteers in the health care system.  My task is in the Casualty Department, replacing my colleague, Dr. Will from California.  His wife, Dr. Karen, worked as a pediatrician.  They and their family introduced us to Thimphu and oriented us to life in this city.   From our apartment, we walk all over town accessing places like the weekend vegetable and craft market, various Bhutanese and Indian restaurants, and an incredible several kilometer uphill walk/run to a massive statue of Buddha from where we can see snow covered Himalayan peaks.  As I walk to the hospital each day, I look to the rising foothills all about me and pass a temple emanating Buddhist chanting.

Our kids have started school.  Each day they don the traditional men's garment of Bhutan called a gho.  Their ghos are in the school colors and all the children where them.  Lucy has eased herself into traditional woman's attire called a kira, a floor length wrap of material.  The kiras are especially attractive as they come in all different colors and are matched with brightly colored jackets.  I have my own gho now and look forward to a socially appropriate moment to wear it.

During the first weekend we were here, the annual Tsechu or festival was occurring.  We went to the Tashichho Dzong, or fortress, where the traditional dancing and ceremonies were held.  While we don't know the stories acted out, it was still exciting to be part of the celebration.  Over that same weekend, the head nurse Passang and his wife took us to visit two important Buddhist monasteries north of Thimphu.  Tango and Cheri monasteries sit in opposing valleys perched high on the sides of the mountains.  Passang explained the significance of the monasteries thus enriching our visit.  There are wonderful legends and histories attached to each monastery.  Tango functions as a high level monastic college while Cheri is a pinnacle monastery for those monks wishing to practice the discipline of meditation.   The peaceful, cloud draped locations and spectacular views of the valley below help me understand why a monk might choose to cloister himself for 3 years, 3 months, and 3 days on his path to becoming a lama.

It's late now and there will be a full day of festivities tomorrow because the King and his new Queen are in Thimphu.  We will fill you in on all the fun so check back again soon.